Hair Extensions 101

Hair Extensions 101

Posted by Lynn Bogen on Aug 27th 2018

Hair Extensions 101

This is a great business to be in. People around the world are fascinated with hair extensions. As a professional you will be asked all kinds of questions relating to many different types of extensions. Keep yourself educated by staying on top of the latest trends and the tried and true techniques. If you can answer questions with knowledge you will gain the client’s trust.

What Kind of Hair Makes Extensions?

Hair comes in many different qualities and from many different sources. The following will give you the information needed to make informed choices when purchasing hair for extensions.

Remy (remi)/Cuticle Correct Hair 

 Remy hair is the best type of hair to purchase for hair extensions. Unfortunately many companies today are calling their hair remy and it is not really remy. True remy hair has been carefully braided or tied before being cut from the donors head.This keeps all of the cuticles aligned, thus eliminating tangling and matting. The hair needs to be carefully handled through all coloring processes to keep the cuticle aligned. Real remy hair should last 3-6 months if it has been chemically textured or lightened to a level 6 or higher and 6 month to 2 years if the color is level 5 or darker with no chemical texture. All hair extension hair starts out a very dark brown and is lightened and colored to reach the beautiful colors we love. Keep in mind that blonde hair may be drier and needs special care. 

Non-Remy/Fallen or Brushed Hair 

This is the cheapest hair available and is not recommended for long term wear. Non-remy hair is collected from cutting room floors, hair brushes and anywhere else long hair can be found. It is then thrown in a vat of acid to wash away as much of the cuticle as possible to try to prevent tangling,(with no cuticle the hair swells terribly with washing and humidity). At this point coloring will take place. The hair is then put in a silicone bath to make it shiny and feel beautiful. The hair is then aligned and put into wefts, keratin tips or bulk. If a texture needs to be permed into the hair more silicone will need to be added. Chinese hair is the best hair to go though the acid bath because of its strength. There are some companies who are very good at this process and can produce a product with minimum tangling. The trick for them is to get the entire cuticle off without the acid destroying the hair. Any remaining cuticle will cause matting and tangling as soon as the silicone is washed away.

Single Drawn Hair

This hair has been placed in a pony tail or braid and then cut from the donor’s head. At this point the very shortest hairs are removed, (the shortest hairs are “drawn” out, hence the name single drawn). This leaves some hairs that are shorter than the full length giving it a slight tapered, layered look. This makes for easy blending and the most natural look. 95% of all true remy hair is single drawn. If you want a very thick bottom edge to your client’s hair order the extensions 2”-3” longer than the desired length and trim.

Double Drawn

This type of hair is all one length. There are no shorter hairs in the extensions like single drawn hair. All of the short hair has been “drawn” out. 95% of the time double drawn hair is the inexpensive Non-Remy hair. Double drawn remy hair is very expensive because so much of the hair is discarded, because of this very few companies have remy double drawn hair. The advantage is you always get the length you want without it being too thin at the bottom. A disadvantage is unless you are an expert at cutting with a razor the hair can look doll like and rather fake.

Shop Vision Hair Extensions for great quality keratin tipped, and tape-in hair extensions. We give personal service and can suggest colors and lengths if needed. Professional only brands available along with brands sold to the general public. All 100% remy human hair.